Transfagarasan is Romania’s most scenic highway—a breathtaking road trip through mountains, myths, and history. If you love mountains and scenic drives, this is a place you must explore. This road looks like it was designed by both engineers and dreamers, Winding its way across the rugged spine of Romania’s Făgăraș Mountains, this road doesn’t just connect two provinces—it bridges worlds. On one side, the mythic, forested heart of Transylvania; on the other, the sun-drenched plains of Walachia. In between? A symphony of stone, sky, and sheer awe.
When to go
This isn’t a road you can conquer anytime you like. It’s a seasonal gift, fully open only between June and late October. Transfăgărășan surrenders to winter for most of the year, its higher sections buried under snow and shadowed by avalanche risk. The portion of the road that crosses the Făgăraș Mountains through Argeș and Sibiu counties , which is about 27 kilometers counties, is closed for the rest of the year. But when summer lifts the curtain, what appears is nothing short of extraordinary. Also called the “the Road to the Sky”, the Transfagarasan is a a 71-mile (114 km) ribbon of asphalt that snakes through one of the most dramatic landscapes in Europe, linking the highest peaks in Fagaras Monutains in Romania.
The history and drive through Transfagarasan
Originally carved into the mountain with dynamite and sheer willpower during Romania’s communist era, the road was built as a strategic military route under the rule of Nicolae Ceaușescu. Yet what emerged from this utilitarian mission was something far more poetic—a road that dances across peaks and ravines. This roads threads through five tunnels, glides over 27 viaducts, and crosses a staggering 831 bridges! You may not notice the numbers as you drive—it’s hard to count when your heart is caught in your throat and your eyes are drawn to the layers of blue-hued peaks stretching endlessly into the horizon.
Every curve feels like a cinematic moment. One moment you’re cradled between green cliffs, the next you’re looking down into glacial valleys wrapped in mist. The air smells of pine and wildflowers, of wet stone and ancient earth. Waterfalls spill from the cliffs like loose silver threads, and the sky—so close it feels like you could touch it—changes hue every time you blink. If you’re lucky, you might see wild sheep grazing. Or you could catch the eerie silence that descends at dusk, when the shadows stretch across the bends like long-forgotten legends.
And while the road is relatively safe and accessible in good weather, it’s not to be underestimated. The curves are many and sharp, and as beautiful as the view may be, drivers must stay focused. Yes, stay focused! Pull-offs and viewpoints are plentiful—so take your time, stop often, breathe deeply. It’s a road made for wandering, not rushing. Whether you’re on four wheels, two wheels, or just taking it in from one of the viewing platforms, the Transfăgărășan invites you to slow down and marvel.
Whether you’re chasing Dracula’s ghost, seeking solitude, or simply drawn to roads less traveled, Transfăgărășan will leave its mark on you. Not just for the engineering it represents, but for the way it makes you feel …. like you’ve touched the sky!
Poenari Castle- Vlad the impaler’s home.
f you enter Transfagarasan from Curtea de Arges, the first touristic objective in your way is Poenari Castle. Perched high on a narrow cliff, this fortress might not be as polished or photogenic as Bran Castle, but it has something far more compelling: a real connection to Vlad the Impaler, the historical figure who inspired the Dracula legend. This wasn’t his summer retreat—it was one of his actual strongholds, a place built with purpose and blood in the early 13th century by Wallachian rulers, and later reinforced by Vlad himself in the 15th century to fortify his rule and keep watch over the land below.
Though often overshadowed by its more famous cousin, Bran Castle, , Poenari is arguably more authentic. These stones witnessed real battles, housed real soldiers, and stood as a defiant signal to enemies below. During Vlad’s reign, it became a key strategic fortification. There’s even a grim legend that he forced captured noblemen—who had dared to plot against him—to rebuild the collapsed sections of the fortress stone by stone, working until their hands bled. As gruesome as it sounds, it’s all part of the castle’s layered and very real history.
Getting to the top, however, is a journey of its own. If you’re feeling brave (and the path is open), you’ll need to conquer a mere 1,480 steps—yes, you read that right. It’s a climb that separates the curious from the committed. When we visited, though, the trail was officially closed. The reason? Bears. No, seriously! Apparently, too many hikers had come face-to-face with the local wildlife, and the authorities decided that humans and bears needed some… personal space.
’ll admit, at first I thought it was just a dramatic excuse. “Closed because of bears” sounded like a poetic way of saying, “We don’t want to station anyone at the top right now.” But then—nature proved me wrong. I’ll tell you in the next section why….
Though we didn’t make it to the top of the castle, the moment felt legendary in its own way. There’s something about this stretch of Romania—where stories, ruins, and real-life wildlife all coexist in an untamed and unapologetically wild landscape. Poenari Castle is abandoned, but it’s far from forgotten. Even when the gates are closed, stairs up closed too, because of wild life, its energy lingers in the forest around it.
One very chill bear
Just as we were driving peacefully along the Transfăgărășan, admiring the jaw-dropping scenery, we spotted a brown bear right by the edge of the road. No fences, no barriers—just him, us, and a few meters of existential reflection.. So they were right about bears!
He was calmly eating berries, completely unbothered, as if to say, “Yeah, I live here. And you? You’re just passing through.” We rolled down the window (probably a terrible idea in retrospect), and he turned his head and looked at us. Not threatening, just… judging.
The highest point – Balea Lake
The highest point along the Transfăgărășan Highway is the breathtaking Bâlea Lake, nestled at an altitude of 6,699 feet (2,042 meters). When you arrive, don’t be surprised if it feels like you’ve stepped into another world. Up here, you’re often above the clouds. The sky opens up in dazzling ways, and on days when the cloud ceiling dips below the peaks, you truly feel like you’re standing at the top of the world. Or, if the clods are higher, sometimes you can even touch or walk through them.
Bâlea Lake is a glacial lake, carved thousands of years ago by the slow grind of ancient ice. The water, often icy-blue and mirror-still, is surrounded by jagged peaks and alpine wildflowers in the summer months—and sometimes, even patches of lingering snow. If you started your drive in the warmth of the lowlands, this will feel like an abrupt change: the air is crisp, the temperature can drop dramatically. The wind carries the scent of pine, and mist. So yes—bring a jacket, even in July.
The area around the lake hums with quiet activity. A scattering of pop-up shops and food stalls awaits visitors with a cheerful rustic vibe. No polished cafés or boutique stores here! There are just locals selling traditional Romanian goods out of tents and wooden huts with corrugated metal roofs. You’ll find hand-knit wool socks, colorful scarves, wooden crafts, and bundles of crystals and minerals (some from these mountains, others from around the country). Whether they hold spiritual energy or just make for a lovely souvenir, they’re all part of the charm.
And the food—oh, the food! It’s hearty, simple, and made for mountain appetites. You might try bulz, a traditional Romanian dish made of fried polenta stuffed with soft, salty cheese, rich and comforting after the long drive. There’s freshly grilled trout, steak with roasted vegetables, boiled corn on the cob, and even chewy local donuts or fruit pies. Don’t expect table service or fancy presentation—seating is informal, but the views more than make up for it.
If you’re up for a little adventure, a walk around the lake is a must. Just make sure to wear proper shoes—the terrain can be muddy, uneven, and often snowy even in late summer.
Transfagarasan Ice Hotel
If you visit Bâlea Lake in the winter, you’re in for something truly magical—Romania’s only Ice Hotel, built entirely from blocks of ice carved straight from the frozen surface of the lake itself. Nestled in the snowy embrace of the Făgăraș Mountains, this hotel is not just a place to stay—it’s an experience straight out of a fairy tale.
Each year, as the lake begins to freeze, a team of local builders, architects, and artists carefully harvest massive ice blocks from the lake and use them to construct the hotel’s walls, rooms, furniture, and even the bar. It’s a monumental task, and no two years are the same! Every winter, the hotel is reimagined with a new theme—past years have celebrated Romanian folklore, classical music, Arctic mythology, and even outer space. The walls are sculpted with icy reliefs and shimmering carvings, and every room feels like a frozen art gallery.
Inside, everything is made of ice: the beds, the nightstands, the glasses in the bar. You’ll sleep on a mattress laid over a thick slab of ice, bundled into warm reindeer hides and heavy sleeping bags made for subzero temperatures. It may sound wild, but many travelers say it’s surprisingly cozy—and definitely unforgettable.
The Ice Hotel also includes an Ice Church, a small but stunning chapel where couples have been known to say their vows surrounded by flickering candlelight and crystal walls. There’s even an ice restaurant and bar, where you can sip a cocktail served in a glass made entirely of ice while bundled in fur-lined parkas.
And don’t worry—you don’t have to spend the night unless you really want to. Many people simply visit for the day, wander through the ice rooms, take photos, and warm up afterward with hot mulled wine in the nearby lodge. But if you’re feeling adventurous and want a story to tell for life, a night in this ice palace under the stars is something few ever forget.
Vidraru Dam and Lake – A Manmade Marvel
Tucked between towering peaks and dense forests, Vidraru Lake is one of Romania’s most awe-inspiring manmade landmarks—a vast mirror of water cradled by nature and carved by human ambition. It was created in 1965 after the construction of the Vidraru Dam, a daring and complex hydroengineering project that transformed this part of the Argeș River into something monumental.
The lake is only accessible via the Transfăgărășan Highway, and the approach is part of the experience—a winding road through tunnels and cliffs that suddenly opens onto this breathtaking panorama of water and mountain. As you emerge from the dark tunnel that leads to the dam, the view hits you like a cinematic reveal: the shimmering lake stretches out like a fjord, flanked by steep mountain walls draped in pine trees and mist.
The creation of Vidraru Dam was an extraordinary feat. The project began in 1960 and took five and a half years to complete. In that time, engineers and workers excavated over one million cubic meters of rock, constructed 42 kilometers of underground galleries, and poured nearly one million cubic meters of concrete. The resulting dam rises 166 meters high and spans 305 meters across, making it not only one of the tallest dams in Romania, but also a symbol of Cold War-era ambition and capability.
The lake itself is massive—over 10 kilometers long and covering 870 hectares—and it serves both as a source of hydroelectric power and as a destination for those in search of dramatic landscapes. The surface, often calm and glassy, reflects the peaks above and the sky beyond. On misty mornings, the scene feels almost mythical, like something pulled from the pages of a fantasy novel.
If you’re adventurous, you can walk across the dam and feel the vertigo-inducing drop beneath your feet, or drive to a small parking lot nearby to admire the statue of Prometheus—Romania’s symbol of knowledge and sacrifice—standing tall with lightning bolts in his hands, watching over the gorge.
Waterfalls Along the Way
One of the unexpected joys of driving the Transfăgărășan is the countless waterfalls that cascade down the mountain slopes like silver threads woven into the landscape. These are not grand, tourist-named spectacles with signs and parking lots—they’re wild, spontaneous outbursts of beauty, often appearing just around a bend or glimmering through a veil of mist.
Fed by the glacial lakes high up in the Făgăraș Mountains, these waterfalls are year-round wonders. Even in the driest of summers or the depths of a snowy October, you’ll still see them flowing—ribbons of cold, clear water racing over rocks and moss, crashing into crystal pools, or fanning out into delicate veils against black cliffs. Some tumble close to the road, so close you might catch a fine spray on your window; others thread through distant ravines, adding shimmering streaks to the steep green walls that rise above.
I couldn’t tell you their names—many don’t have any. They’re just gifts of the mountain, revealed moment by moment as you drive, climb, and curve your way along the route. I snapped a few photos from the car (sometimes hanging out the window a bit too excitedly!), but honestly, no picture can truly capture the sound, scent, and scale of these falls.
It’s one of the things I loved most about this drive—the unpredictability and the magic of it. The road may have been built with dynamite and steel, but nature reclaims every inch with grace, power, and poetry.
f you’re planning a trip and you’re wondering where the best photo spots are, or how long it takes to stop and admire the views, I’d be more than happy to help. Drop me a comment or a message—I promise, this is one drive you’ll never forget. And like me, you might just find yourself planning to do it all over again.
Tips for Visiting the Transfăgărășan
Planning a trip on one of the world’s most scenic drives? Here are some tips to help you make the most of your Transfăgărășan adventure:
1. Check the Road Conditions First
The Transfăgărășan is not open year-round. The full road is typically accessible from late June to late October, depending on weather. Outside of those months, the higher altitude sections are often closed due to snow and avalanche risks. Check road conditions before you go, especially if you’re traveling early or late in the season.
2. Start Early in the Day
This isn’t just a drive—it’s an experience! You’ll want to take your time, stop at waterfalls, explore Balea Lake, take photos, eat, hike, and just soak it all in. Start early to enjoy the full route before dark, especially since mountain weather can change fast.
3. Fuel Up (Car and Snacks!)
There aren’t many gas stations or shops along the way, so make sure to fill up your tank and bring snacks and water. While there are places to eat at Balea Lake or near Vidraru, having something on hand is always a good idea—especially if you hit unexpected traffic or weather delays.
4. Dress in Layers
Even if it’s hot at the base of the mountains, temperatures drop sharply as you climb. Balea Lake sits over 2,000 meters high and is surrounded by snow even in summer. Bring a jacket, sturdy shoes, and maybe even a hat if you’re planning to explore outside the car.
5. Take It Slow—Literally
The road is full of sharp curves, steep climbs, and breathtaking distractions. Drive carefully and be mindful of cyclists, hikers, and animals—yes, even bears. It’s a mountain road, not a racetrack (though Top Gear tried to make it one).
6. Watch for Wildlife
It’s not uncommon to see foxes, mountain goats, or even bears near the road. They’re beautiful but unpredictable—stay inside your car if you encounter them, and do not feed or approach any animals, no matter how photogenic they are.
7. Don’t Miss the Sights
Key stops include Poenari Castle, Balea Lake, Vidraru Dam, countless waterfalls, and scenic overlooks. If you can, stay overnight in the area to break up your drive and enjoy some hiking or stargazing.
8. Bring a Camera—But Look With Your Eyes Too
It’s tempting to photograph every inch of the road (I tried!). But don’t forget to breathe it in, feel the wind, and just be present.
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